I have wanted to visit Park Hill for some time, and Sunday Assembly Sheffield’s 10th birthday provided an excellent opportunity. My recent visit to Sheffield offered a fascinating dive into a city that beautifully balances its industrial heritage with a vibrant, modern pulse. While the city centre has its charms, it was the iconic Park Hill Estate that truly captured my imagination and became a focal point of my exploration.
To make the most of the trip, I travelled down the day before, giving me a full day on Sunday. With a Saturday evening spare, I headed out for a much-needed cool pint. A quick look on the net suggested The Three Tuns. I was immediately welcomed by Paul and Jack. They were perfect hosts. The pub has a lovely atmosphere complimented by music played on vinyl.
When explaining my desire to visit Park Hill, one of the locals at the bar asked about my interest in Brutalism. He was impressed about my knowing about Park Hill and its history. He suggested other places I might see: Sheffield University Arts Tower and Moore Street Electricity Substation.
Sunday came with a lovely bright morning, so off I went to look at Moore Street Substation. My first impression was that of seeing a castle, a stronghold seemingly built to protect power. Designed in 1968 by the architectural firm Jefferson Sheard, this substation is a prime example of Brutalism architecture. It’s a Grade II listed building, described by English Heritage as a “massive and uncompromising bunker which by its plainness and fully-displayed structure expresses a highly appropriate impression of enormous energy confined and controlled within.” Its windowless, reinforced concrete construction, while striking, is entirely functional, optimized for fireproofing, noise reduction, and supporting heavy equipment, making it a powerful expression of its purpose. In urban environments, electricity substations are crucial for maintaining a reliable power supply, but their presence can pose challenges due to space constraints and potential visual impact. Sheard’s answer is an answer that reflects its reality.
My other reason for being in Sheffield was to attend Sunday Assembly Sheffield’s 10th birthday celebration. For those unfamiliar, Sunday Assembly is a global secular community that celebrates life, gathering to hear inspiring talks, sing popular songs, and listen to readings. It’s about finding meaning and connection without supernatural beliefs, fostering a sense of community and shared purpose. Their 10th birthday was a pleasure, a testament to the community they’ve built over the past decade to mark this milestone and reaffirm their commitment to living better, helping others, and wondering more. Raj gave an informal talk on how they choose the songs for Sunday Assembly: Non-religious, Family Friendly and Singalongability. He went on to share findings from a spreadsheet he has created with all the songs that Sunday Assembly Sheffield have sung.
Just yards after leaving the Sunday Assembly, rising dramatically on the hillside, Park Hill is an unmissable, even if divisive, landmark. This colossal concrete structure is one of Europe’s largest Grade II* listed buildings, and it’s a prime example of Brutalist architecture. Built between 1957 and 1962 by architects Ivor Smith and Jack Lynn, it was designed as a revolutionary social housing project, inspired by Le Corbusier’s Unité d’habitation in Marseille.
The vision behind Park Hill was truly ambitious: to create “streets in the sky.” These wide elevated walkways were intended to replicate the community spirit of traditional terraced housing, even being wide enough for milk floats to drive along. The idea was to foster interaction among residents and avoid the isolation often associated with high-rise living. Initially, it was celebrated as a utopian solution to post-war housing shortages, providing modern homes with indoor plumbing, central heating, and amenities like shops, pubs, a school, and even a police station within the complex.
Unfortunately, like many ambitious social housing projects of its era, Park Hill faced significant challenges. Economic decline, particularly the collapse of Sheffield’s steel industry in the 1980s, led to a lack of investment and maintenance. The “streets in the sky” sadly became associated with crime and decay, and the estate developed a notorious reputation.
In 1998, its architectural and historical significance was recognised with a Grade II* listing, saving it from demolition. Since 2004, developers Urban Splash, in partnership with English Heritage, have been undertaking a sensitive regeneration project. This ongoing transformation involves restoring the distinctive concrete frame while introducing colourful infill panels, updating interiors, and re-establishing commercial and community spaces at ground level. It’s a complex and fascinating process, striving to breathe new life into a building that remains a powerful symbol of architectural ambition and social change.
The “I love you. Will you marry me?” graffiti at Park Hill, and its fascinating backstory, was covered in a BBC Radio 4 documentary that was first broadcast in 2011. There’s also a YouTube documentary titled “I Love You Will U Marry Me – Documentary” which explores the story in more depth, focusing on the graffiti itself and its subsequent use. This iconic message, originally painted by a resident named Jason for his girlfriend Clare in the 1990s, has become a powerful symbol of love and commitment amidst the urban landscape. During the estate’s regeneration, developers made the decision to preserve the graffiti, integrating it into the refurbished structure as a nod to its social history and the personal stories within its walls. It’s now a celebrated piece of public art and a landmark that encapsulates both the human narratives of Park Hill and its ongoing transformation.
Walking through Park Hill today, you can truly appreciate the scale and vision of its original design, and see the tangible efforts being made in its revitalisation. The juxtaposition of the original raw concrete with the new, brightly coloured sections is striking, a visual representation of its journey from utopian ideal to neglected icon and now, to a reimagined future. It’s clear that opinions of some about Park Hill remain divided, but its sheer presence and ongoing story make it an incredibly compelling piece of urban landscape. Park Hill now includes many businesses, and I took advantage of South Street Kitchen, where I had a delicious and filling Aubergine Salad Ciabatta.
Sheffield offers a rich tapestry of experiences. From the bustling Peace Gardens and the grandeur of the Town Hall to the independent shops and cafes of the Cultural Industries Quarter, there’s a strong sense of a city evolving while retaining its unique character. The blend of gritty industrial heritage with green spaces and an arts scene creates a dynamic and welcoming atmosphere. Also at The Three Tuns I was introduced to the work of street artist Phlegm. Phlegm is a Sheffield-based muralist and illustrator known for his highly distinctive, monochromatic artwork. His intricate pieces typically feature fantastical, often surreal, creatures and elaborate mechanical or architectural forms, creating detailed narrative worlds on large-scale surfaces. My brief visit only scratched the surface, but it deepened my appreciation for Sheffield’s resilience, its architectural legacy, and its continuous journey of transformation.
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